*Go-Ped Core*

Browse Around...

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Raise Compression��Advance Timing��Mod Spark Plug��Mod Muffler*��Mod Filter��Tune CarbPullstart Mod*��Polish Your Fan Cover* and Slidetube*��Lighten Your Flywheel*��Spring Mod

�Raise Compression by Removing Base Gasket...(actual mod. by PS&WS)

I know, I know, the modification isn't by me, but the directions are. To do some of these you need to know go-peds fairly well and you need to be able to use certain tools, the only reason I'm including this is because I think these mods are awsome, easy and make such an improvement. Oh, and this mod can be done on any engine. (G23 and G2D)
Materials:

Allen Key/Wrench Set
Strong Heat Resistant Liquid Gasket
Screw Driver: Phillips (I like to use an "impact driver", helps not to strip the easily strippable screws.)
Baseball Card/Business Card
A Clean Rag
A Brain With An IQ Over 3

Procedure:

Ok, first take off your fan cover.
Now take off your ignition coil, and make sure not to lose the little plastic spacers.
Now remove the cylinder (don't twist it, pull it striaght off.)
Note: If your engine is a '97 or older, (look for a marking on the flywheel if you're not sure) use sand paper to sand off the little arrow on top of the piston. While you're at it you might want to sand off the carbon build up on the piston.
Take off the gasket laying on the crankcase.
Use your rag to clean off the surface of the crankcase where the cylinder mounts and the base of the cylinder.
Now take a dot (that means a SMALL pea size dot) of the liquid gasket and lightly spread it over the crankcase surface and the bottom of the cylinder.
Now align the piston rings with the key things, sqeeze them (the rings), and slide on the cylinder.
Screw everything back on tight, and your ready to go. Read on for more free mods to make your stock ped fly.

�Advancing Spark Timing...(acutal mod. by PS&WS)

Again, the engine modification itself is not originated by me. It was thought up by the people at Pacific Sand & Water Sports. A link to their site is on every title bar that has a mod. by them below it. I re-wrote the directions, if you find mine to hard, go to thier site for pictures and a more detailed explination. Oh, I believed this modification is only for G23 engines, I tried to get directions for a G2D, and finally got them! (see below). Now without further adue...
Materials:

Screw Driver (Preferably an impact driver, look for one at your local hardware/automotive shop if you plan to be doing hardcore engine work.)
Allen Key/Wrench Set
Socket Wrench & Socket (I reccomend buying a set, if not only for engine work, but for anything. These are EXTREMELY useful.)
Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench or a Pair of Huge Channle Locks (available at any automotive store, well most likely.)
Flywheel Puller or Pair of 6mm Bolts (The bolts are available at Landsurfing.com as a set. Although I have found that the spindle bolt fits and works. But you need two of them.)
Pair of Dykes/Sidecutters

Procedure:

Hmm, ok first take off the fan cover using your handy impact driver.
Now you see the evil flywheel. Put your oil filter wrench or huge channel locks on it (do not use a screw driver or anything, you'll mess up your flywheel) and using your socket wrench and appropriate socket, remove the nut holding the flywheel on.
Ok, procede in putting your each arm (there's 2, or should be) of the flywheel puller on the thick part (where the magnets are) of the flywheel. You will break the flywheel if the arms aren't on the thick part. If you have the 6mm bolts, screw them into the two holes until you hit the crankcase.
The next part is fairly obvious, tighten the screw thing in the middle of the puller until the flywheel pops off making sure that the arms are even with each other. Or if you're using the bolts, give each one a 1/2 a turn at a time. Make sure they are even.
Once you have the flywheel off, you'll see part of the crank sticking out. There's a little key thing in it. Using your side cutters, rip the key out.
Now, with your piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) put your flywheel back on, except this time, move it over about 1/2 - 1 width of the key (for G2D engines do no more than 3/4 of a key width) CLOCKWISE.
Using the oil filter wrench and the socket wrench, put the bolt back on. (you may need someone to hold the flywheel steady while you do this.)
After the fan cover is screwed on with your IMPACT DRIVER, hehe, you're ready to ride. If you did the last mod and this mod, you should notice a big performance increase.

�Spark Plug Mod.... (acutal mod. by PS&WS)

Ok, this modification is fairly simple, (and can be done to either the G23 or the G2D) but if used with the above two, a noticeable performance gain is made. The directions are re-written by me, but the idea of it all was thought up by PS&WS. If you removed the base gaskket and have a '97 or older engine and you didn't file off the arrow on top of your piston, it might create a problem, but I highly doubt it. Onwards...
Materials:

Screw Driver/Impact Driver
Socket Wrench & Socket Appropriately Sized for the Spark Plug. (Or an adjustable wrench)
Dykes/Sidecutters
RED Locktite
*Optional (But HIGHLY reccomended): NGK BM7A Spark Plug (for G23's) or NGK CR7HSA Spark Plug (for G2D's)

Procedure:

Remove the engine shroud with your screwdriver/impact driver by removing the screw on the side of the engine (gas tank side) and the phillips head screw at the top right of the fan cover.
Now with your socket wrench/adjustable wrench remove the spark plug from the cylinder.
With your HIGHLY reccomended NGK spark plug, or your stock plug, locate the ring on top of the threading. Cut it off with your dykes/sidecutters.
Now look at the metal piece that hangs over the electrode. (Where the spark jumps to.) If it goes past the electrode sand it down with sand paper or even a sanding bit on a dremel (uneccesary) so that it stops right at the end of the electrode. This will make the spark all around faster, which means you go faster. You also might need to center the metal piece directly over the electrode, while you're at it sand the surface of the electrode and the metal peice so they shine, this will make the spark jump easier and more efficiently.
Now take your RED Locktite and put a light coat of it where the ring used to be on the plug. (NOT the threads)
Screw the plug back in evenly, making surenot to crossthread it.
After you put the engine shroud back on, you're once again ready to ride.

�*Muffler Modification*...(written and originated by ME.)

Yes, I know you're probably saying "You cheap, rip off, son of a bitch, liar. The muffler mod. isn't by you, PS&WS made it up!" Well asshole, this one is different. Notice how they don't give directions, so I'm making it free for those of you capable of handling a dremel. Oh, and I've never recieved a superstocked engine from PS&WS, so its not like I had anything to copy off of. This mod. should increase your acceleration and maybe top end, and noise. With bigfoots, this quiets them down and makes them faster, but sports do get louder, I can't deny it, but If you want every last bit of free performance gains, go for it. I use this when I mod. people's peds and its great. Now, let us begin...
Materials:

Screwdriver/Impact Driver
Allen Key/Wrench Set
Dremel, Cutting Disks, and One of Those Cylindrical Shiny Metal Cutting Blades
Small Can of Machine Oil (so the cutting blade doesn't dull out quickly)
Long, Thin, Needle Nose Pliers

Procedure:

Hmm ok, take of the engine shroud (Hehe even after you just put it back on from the last mod. Sorry.)
Now remove the muffler with your allen keys. (I think its a 4mm bolt?)
Put the muffler upside down in a vise, and tighten the vise.
Use your dremel and cutting disks to cut off the sleeve sticking out of the muffler as close to the actual muffler and possible.
Now use the shiny, cylindrical, cutting blade inside the hole to cut out the rest of the sleeve INSIDE the muffler. Every once in a while (10-20 seconds) drip 2-3 drops of the machine oil on the blade. You might even want to drip some oil around the hole. I find that just attempting to widen the hole by pressing around the circle helps to cut out the sleeve. (It just wears away)
Once you've cut the the sleeve, (Its just a 1/4" peice of metal the same width as the sleeve that was sticking out of your muffler) procede to move the dremel in a circular motion while pressing fairly hard on the "sides" of the hole to widen it. Widen it to about 1/2" - 3/4". Too big will cause a performance loss.
Once you've done that use the long, thin, needle nose pliers in the exaust entrance hole on the muffler and rip out the metal and tissue-like material lining the muffler. I presume these are the flame arrestors, once removed the compression noise is able to bounce off the walls of the muffler better making slightly more back-pressure. Getting all of it out isn't the easiest job in the world, but keep at it. You can skip this if you'd like. I reccomend it though.
Now I always wash out my muffler to gt rid of the carbon build up.
Greaty, you're done. You now have a bigger hole in your muffler and no "flame-arrestors". Bolt the muffler back on once it has fully dried, along with bolting the shroud back on. Make sure to put the gasket that goes inbetween the muffler and the cylinder back where it belongs.
Ok, you're ready to ride, by now you should have done all these mods, so your go-ped should go about 3-4 mph over stock and your acceleration should be amazing. This mod. will make your go-ped louder due to that the exaust no longer traveles through the frame, I think its worth it though. *shrug*

�Filter Element Modification... (By...no one really, its just logic.)

This modification is really simple and will increase your air flow a little bit without adding as much noise as an HP air filter and keeping the choke.
Materials:

Go-ped
Stock Air Filter
Hands

Procedure:

Just take off your filter cover.
Remove the foam filters.
Wash them in warm soapy water.
Put ONE of them back in, or do it the PS&WS way by cutting out the middle of the second one leaving only a 1/2" thick border. This helps to retain the second filter.
Put the cover back on, and your done. Simple enough, yet it will increase air flow which is needed when you do all of the above mods.

�Stock Cabrorator Tuning & Stock Intake Manifold Modification*...(sorta by PS&WS)

On the title bar is says "sorta by PS&WS" because I think I saw somewhere that they made it up, but it sure isn't posted as a free mod. on their site. This modification (carb. tuning) is really simple too...almost unneccesary, but if your into the littlest performance gains, it sure can't hurt. Cutting the sotck manifold down helps with intake...it lets the air and gas into the cylinder faster meaning more RPMs. Do not worry, it does not effect the bore in anyway so your engine will run like normal with a noticable amount of more RPMS. If you do the mod. and your engine won't start, just disconnect the kill switch from the ignition coil or from the first connection joint after the wire comes out of the engine. If you follow my directions right I garuntee that will be the only problem, if that. Now, for the ones I didn't scare away...(P.S. I do this mod. whenever I work on people's peds, so its not as dangerous as it sounds. =)
Materials:

Stock Carb.
Slotted/Flathead Screwdriver (You don't need the impact driver for this one, hehe.)
Stock Manifold
Hacksaw
Sandpaper

(Carb Tuning) Procedure:

Find the screw (Its black) on top of the carb where the throttle is. Its fairly large and it's the slotted type.
Turn it counter-clockwise (left) to make starting your go-ped easier, a bit faster, and worse smelling exaust (runs richer).
Turn it clockwise (right) to make starting harder, but better MPG and less exaust (runs leaner).
Do all of this making 1/16"-1/8" turns. Ride around for a little bit to actually notice a difference before re-adjusting.
After doing that you should be all set.

(Manifold Mod.) Procedure:

Ok...Open your air filter, take out all the elements, unscrew the two black screws and just push your carb and air filter out of the way.
Now take off your STOCK intake manifold. (The black piece separating your carb from your cylinder.)
This part is hard to explain, but there is a groove in it about 1/4 or 1/3 of the way down looking straight at it, it goes all the way around the manifold. This is where you cut it.
Now you are cutting it LENGTHWISE, not WIDTHWISE, so put it in a vice and cut striaght through at the groove.
It will be a little rough so sand it smooth. Your cut must be close to perfect, if not perfectly even.
Now once it's smooth, bolt it back on. You'll need to cut down the carb screws (the black screws that hold your carb and air filter to the manifold) about 1/8"-1/4" if you'd like to still use your kill switch. If you don't use your kill switch anyway, just bolt it back on and *disconnect your kill switch*.
You should be set. Your go-ped should start like normal. If not, disconnect the kill switch. The reason for this is that the screws ground out on the cylinder causing the ignition coil to ground out, which therefore there is no spark being made. Even on bigfoots the kill switch is not needed, the brakes stop it just fine. If worse came to worse you could just pull off the spark plug boot to stop the engine.

�Turning Your Pullstart Into An Airscoop...(by me, bwahaha)

Ok, this is a modification I have not done too many times (about three, but it works and looks cool if done right), but air scoops cost a hell of a lot of money, and its completely unneccesary. ADA says G23 engines shouldn't have air scoops because the flywheel fins face inward which are vented by the engine casing; and by having a scoop, it misdirects the air and causes your engine to run hotter. Now, I'm not sure if this is true, but Engine Trix and Meyers make an air scoop for G23s, so choose which company you like better, =P. And, this mod. shouldn't be done on Bigfoots, Liquimatics and Go-Quads, 'cause with out a pullstart you need to push start which is not possible (easily) with any of the previously listed Go-Peds. This mod. might look a little stupid on G2Ds, so I have separate directions. Onwards...
Materials:

Sport or X-Ped
Pull Start
Dremel w/ Shiny Cylindrical Cutting Bit
Screw Driver/Impact Driver

(G23)Procedure:

Ok, first use the impact driver to take off your pullstart (duh)
Now, turn it (the pullstart) around so you see a Phillips style bolt. Unscrew it, and WATCH OUT, that recoil spring is deadly.
Ok, now that all the internals are out, and the handle is off you should have an empty piece of plastic.
Using your dremel, dremel out 1-2 (I reccomend one, and make it the one where the handle used to be, that thing is ugly.) of the 4 sections divided up by 4 lines (look for them on the pullstart casing, they're there.)
Put it back on with the hole facing foward and down. Believe it or not, it picks up more dirt facing any other way, besides any dirt picked up will just pass by your flywheel and out the other side.
Now you have an air scoop that cost you the $.20 of electricity you used up instead of $45 plus shipping. It really doesn't look bad either, it also doesn't stick out, and it matches your fancover so there's no way you could have picked a stupid anodized color (besides black) which looks amazingly dumb on your black fan cover! Please, hold the appluase.

(G2D)Procedure:

Alright, so take your pullstart off using the impact driver.
Now on this one, you don't need to remove the internals since it's bigger than the G23 one and its already vented.
OK, using your dremel, dremel out every other bar going across the pullstart (hehe, you know...the bar things)
Once you've done this, you now have a more highly vented (cooled) flywheel. If you like, you could remove all the internals on the pullstart and use the G23 directions, but I put this up here just because its another idea I had for those of you who use their pullstart.

�Polish Your Fancover* and Slidetube*(by...ME)

After getting the idea to polish my fan cover from Phil Finder...it turned out so well that I figure, share the knowledge. I've seen that a lot of people have done it, or want to do but aren't sure how...so here it is. I just typed up directions to Jrb_86@hotmail.com (webmaster of PedHead.com) so, its not a big deal to post them here. (Note: This makes your fan cover a wee bit weaker.) Onwards...
Materials:

Coarse Steel Wool (#2 maybe?)
#00 Fine Steel Wool
Variable Speed Power Drill (about 3500 RPMs)
Circular Shaped Metal Polishing Bit (Mine had those rough red dreadlock things on it, I see them all over.)
Buffing Wheel
Dremel
Buffing Wheel for Your Dremel
Metal Polish
(Optional, not totally reccomended) Clear Coat Spray Paint
8-10mm Allen Key
Rubber Mallet

(Fan Cover) Procedure:

First take off the fan cover from your engine, then remove the pull start from the fan cover.
Use your coarse steel wool to wear down the paint. Then use your finer grade to smooth out any deep scratches.
Then take your variable speed drill and put the metal polishing bit in it. (Sorry I don't know the name of it, they're very common though.)
Then, spend a good 1.5 hours sitting there polishing it with the drill until all the paint fully comes off it and it should be a flat polished looking "color" not too reflective yet though.
After that, put your buffing wheel bit in the drill and use your thick ass metal polish and coat the immediate area you're polishing, along with a little on the buffing wheel. Then sit there polishing it for another 2 hours until its REALLY shiny, almost chrome looking. (Sounds like a lot of hours, but I did it over 3 days.)
Then because of the screw holes and the little nooks that you can't get into with the big buffing wheel, use your small buffing wheel bit in dremel and just dremel the rest of the dull areas away.
I realized that finger prints show on it and its gets kinda dirty easy and polishing it with a rag and polish after every few rides is annoying. Solution: use clear coat spray paint on it.
If you clear coat it do it in VERY LIGHT coats. Spray short bursts from about 18"-24" away until you did the whole thing.
Repeat that process 2 times...if you get impatient and do 1-2 heavier coats it will get flat looking and ugly...and ruined. This should keep it shiny and it won't get flat easily.
Before you clear coat it, spray some on the back of it to see how it looks, some clear coats aren't clear.

(Slidetube) Procedure:

Ok, to take of your slidetube, first pull it up and bend your handle bars over.
Now, look at the FTG (the black piece that the slidetube covers when down.) and you'll see a key type thing at the top of it.
Take your 8-10mm allen key, put it into the either hole on the top of the FTG, and hit the end with your mallet (Don't push the key thing all the way out, just enough to let the handle bars come out, its a bitch to get back in!). Pull out your allen key and the handle bar assy. will fly everywhere. Hehe.
Now, take your slide tube and use the same directions you used to polish your fan cover to polish your slide tube.
Done? Good. Now put the spring, then the slide tube back on your handle bars, and push the slidetube up so the end of the handle bars is sticking out.
Push the end of the bars into the top of the FTG, and when alligned right, quickly hit the key (That should still be in the end of the FTG!) with your mallet. Then use your allen key to center the FTG key.
Oh, it might not go as easy as I say, it normally takes me a few tries or the help of another person to hold the slidetube up while I allign it and lock it in.
You should be done resulting in a killer looking front end. Hope you didn't encounter too many problems.